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Gerard Reversade is known as one of the “last Mohicans.” In fact, it would be hard to find anyone on Maui who has roots in the culinary world as deep as this French-born chef, although there are some who are older.
Plus, few chefs anywhere on the planet are both masters of award-winning savory fare as well as frou-frou desserts, as Gerard most assuredly is.
According to his bio, Gerard tended his own garden at age 8, baked his first croissant at age 12, and at 15, he was taken to the train station from his home in Gascony to travel to Provence for the start of a three-year culinary apprenticeship.
With decades in the kitchen, Gerard will celebrate 33 successful years on Maui at Gerard’s in the Plantation Inn in Lahaina. In addition to the awards that it receives every year, it was nominated as one of the “100 Most Romantic Restaurants in United States 2015” by Open Table.
That’s because you may dine outdoors on the verandah with balustrades and overhead fans or in the Plantation Inn that transports you into old-world France.
Over the years, Gerard has been named “Best Chef on Maui” and his restaurant has shined in Fodor’s Choice, Wine Spectator, Trip Advisor and Forbes.
The thing is, Gerard and his culinary team, which includes longtime Chef de Cuisine Cliff Concepcion, are far from resting on any laurels. Gerard just finished a catering gig for hundreds at Andaz Maui, and diners at his restaurant can’t get enough.
Maui residents love it, too, not only for the stellar French cuisine with an island twist, but because Gerard offers 20 percent off of food nightly for kamaaina.
“It’s hard for me to get away since I am so involved with the daily operation of the restaurant,” says Gerard. “Occasionally, I do manage to get away for two to three days to go camping and hiking.”
“I still come in every day to do things Cliff doesn’t have time to do. I make ginger ice cream, head cheese, foie gras terrine, and I also make strawberry jam that we serve at breakfast to our hotel guests.”
One of the house-favorite appetizers is the organic shiitake mushrooms from Oregon baked in delicate puff pastry. Seafood is very popular as well.
Seafood highlights are ahi tartare with taro chips and microgreens; shrimp pasta with truffle butter, hazelnut oil and creme fraiche; smoked salmon and ahi carpaccio in lemon chantilly cream; and fresh snapper dumpling in sorrel sauce.
“We buy all of our fish from the Lahaina fishermen,” he says. “Ono and mahi and we are very fortunate to have a steady supply of opakapaka, uku and papio.”
Gerard also excels at making rillettes de pork, boudin noir and pate de campagne from shredded pork spread to black pudding to liver pate – all using Malama Farm Berkshire pork from Haiku.
You may also sink your teeth into saddle of venison with jelly of Akala berries Gerard picks from the forest; quail Souvaroff with foie gras and cognac; and confit of duck with garlic petals.
Aromatic shrimp consomme and chilled cucumber soup pair well with salad of fresh hearts of palm. Taking it to new heights are creme caramel Opera and the rhubarb pie with ginger ice cream.
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